THE village of Benoajan is rightly famed for the caves which are well signposted around the area. South of the village of Benoaján heading towards Cortes de la Frontera, a side road leads off on the right, serving as a car park. The opening times are not well advertised and many a tourist turns up to find that the last tour of the day has commenced. Try your luck when they open at 10am or when they open again after lunch at 4pm. Two guides are normally on duty and they take tours of up to 25 in each group. As the tours last around an hour, you will have to wait if you miss the guides, who lock the doors to the caves behind them as they set off on the tour. Still, the wait is beautiful, as the benched area looks out across the Guadiaro valley 670m above sea level.

THE entrance of this cave can be seen from the railway as it heads north from the station two kilometres away. It's called the cave of the cat as its entrance is said to look like a cat's head. Perhaps it does, though the present author failed to see it. This cave is the terminus of an underground river that rises four kilometres away as the Rio Guaduares, which takes an underground route from the other side of Montejaque, from the Cueva de Hundidero ('fallen'), only recommended to skilled potholers. Famed for its potholing experience, it has been the scene of many deaths as rising waters trapped the unprepared.

AS the name suggests (the prefix 'Ben-' found across the region derives from the Arabic 'ibn', 'son of'), this is another village of Moorish origins. Located very near to Montejaque, the settlement can be found in two halves. The original village was built on a mountainside with the lower community in the Guadiaro river valley that grew up around the railway station. The area is popular for rural tourism, and offers excellent walks, mountain views and potholing. Indeed, the lower part of the municipality runs into Grazalema Natural Park, with the valley dominated by the striking limestone peaks of Ventana at 1298 metres and Palo at 1400 metres above sea level.

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JIMERA de Líbar is an excellent destination for anyone wishing to enjoy the wonders of rural tourism in Andalucia. This town is one of the white villages in the Ronda mountains (Serranía de Ronda). It is nestled in the Guadiaro Valley right across from the Líbar mountain range and – best of all – it is inside the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. Within the actual town of Jimera de Líbar the sights centre around the town hall and religious buildings. With the village divided into two separate parts, you have the town hall and the Our Lady of the Rosary Church in one area. The other part of town is actually two kilometres away. It's called the 'Barriada de la Estación' (The Train Station Neighbourhood) and includes the Hermitage for the town's patron saint, the 'Virgen de la Salud' (Virgen of Health).

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AS in all the pueblos blancos, Montejaque dates from the time of the Berber settlers, after the Moslem conquest. Located in a semi-hidden bowl hidden by circular rocky outcrops, it overlooks a small fertile valley of olive groves. Officially Montejaque is home to just over 1,000 people, although there is a concerted effort to improve its economy with rural tourism. Many homes were abandoned and fell into disrepair as the population left, firstly for Ronda then further afield. Indeed a plaque in the village commemorates the constant exodus of people, initially the 17th century, to colonise America and in more recent times to Germany to search for work, most of them in the small south-western town of Knittlingen. This accounts for so many of the villagers speaking German (with a heavy south German accent). The ever-expanding Costa today still attracts the young away in their quest for wealth and a less regimented social order.

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