Montejaque

By Chris Wawn and John Gill

AS in all the pueblos blancos, Montejaque dates from the time of the Berber settlers, after the Moslem conquest. Located in a semi-hidden bowl hidden by circular rocky outcrops, it overlooks a small fertile valley of olive groves.

Officially Montejaque is home to just over 1,000 people, although there is a concerted effort to improve its economy with rural tourism. Many homes were abandoned and fell into disrepair as the population left, firstly for Ronda then further afield. Indeed a plaque in the village commemorates the constant exodus of people, initially in the 17th century, to colonise America and in more recent times to Germany to search for work, most of them in the small south-western town of Knittlingen. This accounts for so many of the villagers speaking German (with a heavy south German accent). The ever-expanding Costa today still attracts the young away in their quest for wealth and a less regimented social order.

Recent initiatives to introduce tourism into the mountains are popular and many deserted homes have been renovated as holiday homes and various hotel annexes. Arriving at one of the pueblo's two hotels, don't be surprised if instead of being shown to your room, you are given a bunch of keys and directions down a number of narrow streets until you find your accommodation. Though clean, these rustic homes evoke a way of life that is slowly dying out. Chickens, goats and of course campo dogs can still be seen in most of the small gardens and the indigenous community still wakes up early in the morning to make the most of the daylight.

The village centre can only be approached by its own short side road, having left the Cortes-Montecorto route at the edge of the pueblo. Parking is not easy and therefore the sooner you park the better, as you will enter a dead end once you reach the Plaza Constitution. If you have a car that breathes in, then you might like to attempt the narrow medieval streets, only ending with a complicated parking saga, much to the amusement of the elderly pueblo residents, who sit out their remaining days watching life go by. Thursdays are a good day to visit as it is market day but parking is even more difficult for tourists but easier for determined locals as every available inch of space is fair game.

A walk up to the Plaza is lined by a number of simple shops hidden by uninviting blinds, some of them no more than front rooms of homes, with their TVs and armchairs at the back of the counter. The Plaza itself is dominated by the Parish Church of Santiago El Mayor built on the foundations of the mosque. Remodelled by Don Pedro Diaz de Palacios, the architect of Malaga Cathedral in 1604, the church did not remain untouched, as it was once again enlarged and re-dedicated in 1773. It has a large central nave and was built in the late Gothic style, with a vaulted roof covering the presbytery.

In the Plaza is the old noble mansion house, which today is the three star hotel Palacete de Marara. During the 17th century, this mansion was the seat of power for the Conde de Benavente and was used when he visited his domain to collect taxes and hunt on the then wooded mountain slopes. The family arms, carved in sandstone and rather decayed, can still be seen outside the main door of the building. The house was to see sadder times in the first half of the last century, when it became a sausage factory. This closed in 1995 due to changing EU legislation, when the owners could no longer afford to meet EU regulations. At the end of 1998, the noble's palace was converted into a three star hotel, with a very good restaurant serving local dishes.

Also sited in the Plaza, the Casa de Constitution was rebuilt in an interesting style after the Civil War. It was an obvious candidate for attack during that bleak period, when authority was attacked by both left and right sides. A Castillo located behind this area was destroyed after the re-conquest and many of the surviving walls were remodelled into homes.

Below the village, the old medieval road to Ronda zig-zags from the new cemetery and over the limestone outcrop. This track is still used today and passes the Hermita de las Escariguelas, visited every August by a procession in honour of the pueblo's patron saint, the Virgin of the Conception. Not an easy task when carrying a statue as it rapidly climbs more than 300 feet. Beyond the hermitage is the pass and a panoramic view of Ronda in the distance. The old medieval road led down into the valley below. However, of late serious walkers have made a route that follows the crest to the left and terminated at the highest point (Mures, 870m above sea level). The track then drops down to the road, very near the empty reservoir.

The village celebrates its various feast days on the 17 May, 25 July and 15 August.

Cueva de Hundidero & Embalse de Montejaque

Approaching the village from the Montecorto junction, the first point of note is the medieval bridge of Canada del Cupil. This once served an old cattle way that ran from Ronda to Seville. A Moorish lookout tower once stood on the hill above, but little of the tower remains.

The road leads to a steep curve left and below is an impressive site, of a large dam without a reservoir. Though some water collects in the winter, the engineer in charge did not realised the implications of trying to build a reservoir in limestone country. In theory it seemed a good idea, as the Rio Guaduares collected a lot of mountain water during the winter months. The river disappears at this point into a cave and a dam was built to stop it disappearing underground. After its completion, authorities waited for the reservoir to fill, only to discover that the water escaped via another underground outlet into the cave system. A pathway leads down from the road to this grand folly of engineering and makes an interesting short walk. Nearby is the signpost to the entrance to the Cueva de Hundidero, which eventually connects to Cueva del Gato near Benaoján. Permits are required to enter the system, which sometimes involves swimming underwater. The system exits the mountain down by the railway line at El Gato (visible from the train and road). A number of hapless explorers have drowned in this system, due to unpredictable water levels, and it is not recommended to the novice.

One of the mysteries of the area is the location of the dolmen El Gigante. Often pictured as a fine example of a Neolithic burial chamber, its location has remained a secret to the passing tourist. It sits on the north side of the reservoir and perhaps had it not been for the geological miscalculation, it might now be under water. Why this is not signposted remains a mystery, as the other 14 dolmens in the Ronda area are accessible one way or another.

The next 1km stretch of road to the pueblo clings to a cliff. As you curve steeply down with a drop on the right, a curious red lamp appears. This lamp is the site of and shrine to a horrific accident, when a coach went over the side killing a teacher and a number of school children. A memorial now marks the spot flowers are often laid on the anniversary of the accident. This is not a good spot to stop, but having found a place to park look across to what is a moonscape and an out of place concrete dam supporting a failed reservoir.

The Valley of the Republicans (Hacho)

The Hacho, at 1,075m above sea level, is the mountain peak that overshadows the pueblo with its white limestone slopes. To reach this area for a glimpse of the valley of the republicans, look for the Bar La Cabana and take the track up past the cemetery into the olive groves. Further effort will take you to the outcrop where a number of griffon vultures live during the summer. A climb up on the ridge offers a taste of bandit country and the Grazalema Naural Park. The walks can be taken around the peak or, for the adventurous, along a trail south to Jimera de Libar and Cortes de la Frontera.